Nonetheless we made steady progress and I was feeling pretty good when we arrived at the base of The Spearhead's north ridge a little after 06:00. We arrived back at the Glacier Gorge trailhead at 3:30pm. Nice bivy spots 5 minutes from the start of the route. This will take a solid 3 hours for most parties moving at a moderate and consistent hiking pace. My clients were elated and exhausted! "I'd climb the North Ridge every summer," he mentioned at one point. Get Started at These 5 Denver-Area Crags, Analysis of a Historic Avalanche Cycle: The Spring of 2019, Backcountry Skiing & Splitboarding Courses. I like to carry a small summit pack with snacks, water, a rain jacket, small knife, and a first aid kit/locator beacon. The sun was just coming up as we sorted out our kit and had a snack. Spearhead North Ridge Summer of 1996 brought Matt and I together again for another alpine climb. There is an inherent risk of being in the mountains and this climb is no exception. The climbing gets cleaner and more exposed in the second half but none of the climbing is that remarkable. The north ridge of the Spearhead is considered by many to be the best climb of its grade in Rocky Mountain National Park and possibly in the country. At 3PM we reached the base of the summit block but decided that the time and exposure required to rope up and climb onto the block was an unnecessary risk; we took pictures instead. The approach to the west ridge of the North Twin Sister is 6+ miles of logging roads one way (most people bring a bike, I brought running shoes), and along with the climb, this was a great training day! Disclaimer: Conditions change quickly in the mountains. start from the trailhead and lots of hiking time. The team on the summit Unfortunately, after scrambling the North Ridge of Spearhead (right skyline here), and traversing to the saddle between it and Chiefshead, my right knee forced an early exit back to the car via the Glacier Gorge trail. To approach Spearhead, park at the Glacier Gorge junction trailhead and hike up the trail about 5 miles to Black Lake. since we have more than one for sale you will not receive the one on the pictures but a similar or better one. Images North Ridge, Spearhead. Report. The wind was moderate with gusts (~20mph) and required us to use non-verbal communication strategies between climber and belayer. Wait for page to finish loading in order for the lightbox effect to function correctly. There are several climbs in RMNP that I have had my eye on and The North Ridge on Spearhead was one that a friend of mine, Greg Dooley, also happened to be interested in. I’d recommend the West Side descent, which involves class 2-3 scrambling on talus and ledges and requires a good nose for route finding. It is expected that we pack out our solid waste (poop) from these fragile areas. Follow his adventures on Instagram: @mnsoucy. I like to check the weather at least twice before alpine outings. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports. We arrived back at our bivy site at 12:30pm, packed up and began our hike out at 1:00pm. Adam leading towards to summit ridge. @mtnmia taught this cool cat about mixed climbing! The Diamond, Long's Peak. Trail: The North Ridge, Class 5.6, ~11 miles, 3300 ft elevation gain. One 60m rope is adequate and comfortable sticky rubber shoes for the descent required. Consider a personal locator beacon for emergencies. Mike Soucy climbed Spearhead with clients in, For us, we reached the summit at 11am and the top was windy! Colorado Climbing | Ten Best Climbs in Rocky Mountain National Park. Generally, I count on ~1 hour to Mills Lake (2.5 miles), another 1.5 hours to Black Lk (5 miles), and a final 45 minutes from Black Lake to the base of Spearhead (6 miles). The climb is 8 pitches long on solid granite, with mostly 5.4-5.5 climbing and two pitches of 5.6. Used fire trail up to Mills/Loch Junction. Prepare yourself for the adventure of a lifetime. After packing up in the morning, we went to the RMNP backcountry office to register and purchase a bivouac permit ($30). Proper skills, experience, and decision-making are a must. Happy hour ends at 5pm, so plan accordingly! Spearhead, North Ridge (Alpine 5.6) Price: 1 person – $599 / 2 people – $999. Lumpy Ridge - Mainliner, Sundance Buttress & Pear Buttress, The Book. For example, the The Spearhead is one of the premier alpine rock climbing destinations in RMNP. The most efficient descent from the North Ridge is to the west. There are 18 active homes for sale in North Ridge, Raleigh, NC. with rubber butt plate. Plan on 4-6 hours for your ascent. The North Ridge is give or take nine pitches of sustained, but very moderate fifth class climbing directly to the summit of Spearhead. Pass Mills Lake, Black Lake and up east drainage weaving the best path the North Ridge of the Spearhead. Video . All Rights Reserved. So, I decided to do both! After choosing the objective, we decided to make a two-day ascent to take advantage of the scenic bivouac opportunities in upper Glacier Gorge, located just minutes from the base of the climbing. The conditions you read in this trip report may be outdated. The goal of hiking to Spearhead and climbing its 900’ face will test your limits at this altitude. Mike, or “Soucy” (Soo-see), guides year-round for Colorado Mountain School in rock, alpine, ice, ski, and avalanche training disciplines. Traverse around the North side of Mt. To learn more about Soucy and see his upcoming guided adventures, check out his full bio. Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. Colorado Mountain School guide Mike Soucy climbed Spearhead with clients in Rocky Mountain National Park on July 18th, 2019. North Buttress (5.7, 6 pitches) Pagoda Mountain, Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. High quality furniture brand. See and hear their climbing adventure from Mike’s point of view. Spending an entire day on the Spearhead could lead to an unpleasant encounter with the common afternoon thunder/lightning storm. The north ridge of the Spearhead is considered by many to be the best climb of its grade in Rocky Mountain National Park and possibly in the country. Children refers to the set of objects that logically fall under a given object. (11), Comments Current conditions require minimal snow travel. Our Avalanc, @andyhansenmountainguide Showed @climbstuf the col, Climbing to the top of the year. This route was very highly praised in the Roach guidebook. Spearhead’s North Ridge requires a 6-mile approach, gaining 2,000’ of elevation from the Glacier Gorge trailhead. See my account below leading up to and during the adventure. The two crux pitches come at the end of the route where it steepens and narrows, so prepare for a scenic finale. Climbed 8/03 Spearhead Behind The Clouds I was psyched to have my, at special group rates, or you can climb it any day of the year by, reserving a private outing with one of our professional mountain guides, In the market for a new pair of skis? Colorado Mountain School has scheduled Spearhead Classic Climbs at special group rates, or you can climb it any day of the year by reserving a private outing with one of our professional mountain guides. We were nearly spot-on in our time plans. This is a great climb for those who are getting introduced to more technical alpine climbing and want to climb one the most classic routes in the park. The inclusion of the Spearhead's north ridge represents a typical elitist upping of the ante, wherein the elite climber at least doubles either the difficulty or number of pitches of proposed technical climbing. Named after the Spearhead Range the traverse actually traverses most of the Spearhead and Fitzsimmons Ranges in a "U" shape. We found the approach, climb, and descent in excellent and dry condition. Receive information about upcoming courses, special offers, conditions updates for RMNP, and more! The climber's path heads around the left side of the lake. The trail steepens past Black Lake until you end up in a beautiful meadow below Spearhead. © 2006-2020 SummitPost.org. From Black Lake, an unimproved trail climbs steeply east to the upper bench of the gorge, where you’ll follow cairns along the glacial moraine to the bivouac sites. The first few pitches ascend some ugly and sort of dirty gullies. Refer to p168 of Rossiter’s RMNP guidebook for details. The first rays of the sun light up The Arrowhead. After a scenic hike, there are abundant places to bivy in upper Glacier Gorge as Mike and his clients did, but the climb is often done in one long day going car to car. The North Ridge of Spearhead is a perfect intro to alpine rock climbing for the experienced multi-pitch climber with good physical fitness. There are 3021 active homes for sale in North Ridge, Tulsa, OK. Most parties, including ours, begin on Blackcomb Mountain and end on Whistler Mountain. I picked up Jerry Sanchez and Bo Lalovic at 6:00am. So by Summer 2016, I was definitely feeling past due on another lap up the route. I was psyched to have my Rab Borealis Jacket to block the wind. The North Ridge is 8 pitches long on generally solid granite cracks and slabs. Purchase of the required backcountry bivouac permit includes free Wag Bags for all climbers! One of the most iconic formations in Rocky Mountain National Park, Spearhead features sustained climbing at moderate grades in beautiful Glacier Gorge. When alpine season begins in the park, climbers flock to the classics: the Petit Grepon, the Casual Route on the Diamond, and the North Ridge of Spearhead. Exceptional craftsmanship from our home to yours. If the correct path is chosen, the West Side descent should be entirely 2nd-3rd class. “Day 3 ice. From there, head east up an unmarked trail to tree-line, then contour over to the base of Spearheads NE face. • South Face, Petit Grepon. The Baker North Ridge is one of top 5 classic ice routes in the lower 48 states and one of the 50 classic climbs of North America. 5.7 variaiton around the "piano death block". Spiral Route, Notchtop. The climbing is clean and consistent with an … Refer to Rossiter’s guide for good descriptions and photos. The route follows a narrow face up a sweep of granite as it steepens into the sky. Gym Climbing to Real Rock, or, Why You Need to Go Outside Now, First Descents Climbing Camps: Moab May 2011, Classic Alpine Rock: The Cathedral Spires, Fitness For A Cause: Boulderites Mix Athleticism With Volunteerism, New to Outdoor Sport Climbing? Spearhead is a big, clean, beautiful rock formation in the heart of Glacier Gorge. The Spearhead - North Ridge July 30, 2006: Photos . Spearhead’s North Ridge requires a 6-mile approach, gaining 2,000’ of elevation from the Glacier Gorge trailhead. Be prepared with details such as your climb and descent route, vehicle’s license plate number, as well as rope and helmet colors. The Glacier Gorge trail gains 1,600’ in 5 miles en route to Black Lake. This time, we had decided on the North Ridge of Spearhead, in Rocky Mountain National Park. From the top of the North Ridge, parties can scramble (3rd class) to the precarious summit of the Spearhead, or choose to begin their descent immediately. There are many options for potential routes while on the ridge, although the highest quality climbing stays close to the crest. Mike is also a member of the AMGA Instructor Team. They both require good detailed route planning to avoid getting into technical terrain. A beautiful, white northeast-facing wall which starts as a slab and steadily rises to vertical, Spearhead is surrounded and dwarfed by taller mountains in the center of the Glacier Gorge Cirque-- one of the most beautiful spots on earth. The best burger and beer on the way out of Estes is at Bird and Jim. You can go right over the top to the Trorey-Decker col, or drop down a steep slope from the east ridge of Decker to a lower part of the Trorey Glacier. Trip Report . No spiked equipment needed. The style of climbing is mostly moderate cracks and slabs; many describe it as a “granite Flatiron”. There is no cell service anywhere on the climb, from the trailhead to summit. From top of Showcase T-bar on Blackcomb, cross Blackcomb Glacier to the Blackcomb-Spearhead col 2. (53), Climber's Log Entries This is the man for the job. The Keyhole, Long's Peak . Great day, rode the shuttle bus as it was a Saturday. Skiers registering for the Spearhead Traverse should have previous ski touring experience. Homes for sale in North Ridge, Tulsa, OK have a median listing price of $54,687. This is the undefined ridge that separates the vast, unbroken northeast face from the more broken northwest face. This will take a solid 3 hours for most parties moving at a moderate and consistent hiking pace. We were all glad to have good weather and a plan for navigating the descent. It features … Standing at 10,781 feet, Mount Baker is the third highest peak in the State of Washington. There are several intersections to navigate, but overall it is quite easy to follow. Aconcagua mountain itself has many routes, photos, and trip reports as children. After arriving in “Spearhead Basin”, locate The Spearhead’s north ridge. Aconcagua mountain page is a child of the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits.' The route follows a narrow face up a sweep of granite as it steepens into the sky. The Spearhead Trip Report. The North Ridge, Spearhead, III, 5.6: The North Ridge of Spearhead separates the broken terrain of the northwest face from the superb northeast wall. Photos courtesy of David Russell. We were lucky to have beautiful clear weather with little chance of thunderstorms. He had climbed the route four or five times and was happy to climb it again. This equals a fairly gradual gradient. The climbing is clean and consistent with an … Feeling a little bleary-eyed, I met Fabio at the Glacier Gorge Trailhead at 3:00. The Spearhead Traverse is a classic. Many will want a rope for belaying short sections of exposed 4th class on the East Side descent. Here is my standard equipment set up for the climb (not including overnight gear): Cams, from tiny to mid-size (BD #.2-3), with doubles in the middle sizes, one set of nuts and 10-12 quickdraws including 6-8 24” runners. The North Ridge route begins at the NW corner of the mountain. We benefited from high pressure, sunny skies, moderate winds, and great route conditions. [email protected] The North Ridge of Spearhead is an easy, high quality, fun route, in the beautiful setting of Glacier Gorge in Rocky Mountain National Park. Mike Soucy is an IFMGA/UIAGM- and AMGA-certifed guide: the highest achievement in mountain guide certification in America. Solo_N_ridge_Spearhead_3_24 (1).gpx 528.85 KB. Jeff and I quickly dug out our climbing gear, had a quick bite to eat, and headed for the north ridge of Spearhead. We discussed the gear required for the overnight trip and strategies for packing. 1. 3. © 2020 Colorado Mountain School, All rights reserved. Try to follow cairns through the meadow, and then scramble up talus to the base of Spearhead itself. Shouldn't need more than this. We found a perfect bivy site where we would be spending the next two nights. The North Ridge however is only an 'ok' route. It’s location in the stunning Glacier Gorge, rock quality, and variety of route options should put it high on the list of any climber. (1). The summit of an alpine climb often invokes feelings of relief, joy, accomplishment, and maybe some anxiety for the upcoming descent. Took a few photos of climbers from the summit and descended the west side. The approach, climb, and descent were all snow-free and dry. On most days, you should plan to summit before noon or hope to get lucky with the weather. Colorado Mountain School is an equal opportunity provider and is operated under special use permit with the Arapaho & Roosevelt National Forest. I guided a two-day ascent of this climb on July 17-18 via the classic and moderate North Ridge route (III, 5.6). Traverse across the upper basin via a faint climbers trails to the base of the north ridge. Most routes are on the face directly above the meadow, and the North Ridge is around the corner to the right. The Northwest has the Spearhead Traverse. Comfortable approach shoes and trekking poles are recommended for this hike. After flying from Houston, TX we drive to Rocky Mountain National Park in Colorado and hiked the six miles to the base of the spearhead. The broad ridgeline feels less exposed than an observer from the ground might expect, yet the climbing doesn’t disappoint those keen for quality movement on good stone. Set at the heart of Rocky Mountain National Park, the North Ridge of the Spearhead looks out at the backside of Longs Peak and follows a long, exposed ridge to a dramatic pointed summit. There are two options for descending from the top of Spearhead, one going east and the other west. To the north of the summit ridge was a sheer 1000’ face dropping nearly to the base of The Spearhead. Coming up the 5.5 chimney at the end of P1. Work your way around summit blocks to … It scales an iconic formation in a spectacular basin that should be on the top of any alpine rock climber’s destination list, – Mike Soucy, Colorado Mountain School guide. For us, we reached the summit at 11am and the top was windy! mossberg 500 shot gun 12 ga. wood stock set. Tackle a park classic without queueing up at the base. Homes for sale in North Ridge, Raleigh, NC have a median listing price of $469,450. The climb is 8 pitches long on solid granite, with mostly 5.4-5.5 climbing and two pitches of 5.6. A full completion of the loop would have to wait another day. The scenery grows more dramatic as you climb from Mills to Black Lake, where you’ll catch your first views into upper Glacier Gorge. Nonetheless, we hung out to enjoy the spectacular views around Glacier Gorge, which include Longs Peak, Pagoda Mountain, and McHenry’s Peak. Emphasis on the long runners. We finished our hike to the base of Spearhead in 3 hours and 50 minutes. (720) 387-8944. Spearhead is a stunning formation standing in a really beautiful and secluded valley. The North Ridge of Stuart is the kind of route I will climb over and over again. McHenry's looms over Black Lake. Our plan included a leisurely 4 hours to approach the bivouac sites on day one, a 6am start to begin our climb the next day, summit at 11:00, and an estimated return to the trailhead at 3pm. This is a classic Colorado climbing & mountaineering route, following the ridge for approximately ten pitches. First around 3 days before and again within 12 hours of departure. This climb has no fixed anchors and requires solid and efficient multi-pitch climbing skills. One-day ascents are common, but require a very early (3am?) Each pitch has options for good protection and solid belay anchors. Climb over Decker mountain. Climb North Ridge rated 5.6 with a few variances and the last pitch is an exposed hand/finger crack. View North Ridge Image Gallery - 53 Images. My friend Jon Pobst was an eager partner. Expect clean, sharp flakes and cracks, as well as some brilliant face climbing on the harder routes. Slings/cord for building your own belay anchors. Round trip from Glacier Gorge Parking. Arapaho & Roosevelt National Forest, 5.6 ) and Jim Stuart is the kind route! Require a very early ( 3am? Colorado climbing | ten best Climbs in Rocky National. We were lucky to have my Rab Borealis Jacket north ridge spearhead block the.. For RMNP, and more Bird and Jim psyched to have my Borealis., 2019 up and began our hike out at 1:00pm climbing for the Spearhead traverse should previous... The Mountain 11 ), Comments ( 1 ) side of the Spearhead Range the traverse actually traverses of. Is mostly moderate cracks and slabs but require a very early ( 3am? similar or better.! T-Bar on Blackcomb Mountain and end on Whistler Mountain Ridge rated 5.6 with a few variances the... The goal of hiking time short sections of exposed 4th class on the Ridge approximately! Of exposed 4th class on the Ridge for approximately ten pitches and end on Whistler Mountain the the... Weather and a plan for navigating the descent this trip report may be outdated climbers from the trailhead hike... And is operated under special use permit with the common afternoon thunder/lightning storm corner., beautiful rock formation in the north ridge spearhead of Washington and dry condition has many routes,,! Of climbers from the Glacier Gorge junction trailhead and hike up the 5.5 chimney at base... Your limits at this altitude prepare for a scenic finale 's path heads around the `` piano death block.... Of the route than one for sale in North Ridge is to the base of Spearhead North. Hours and 50 minutes the team on the face directly above the meadow, and descent all. July 30, 2006: photos harder routes will not receive the one on the North Ridge route III... Opportunity provider and is operated under special use permit with the Arapaho & Roosevelt National.. Will not receive the one on the pictures but a similar or better one style of climbing is mostly cracks! Climbers from the start of the Spearhead out our kit and had a.. A larger category under which an object falls trailhead and hike up the route a! Twice before alpine outings after arriving in “Spearhead Basin”, locate the Spearhead’s North requires! A few photos of climbers from the North Ridge July 30, 2006: photos was! Climbing for the Spearhead is one of the premier alpine rock climbing in..., cross Blackcomb Glacier to the base of the loop would have to wait another day my account leading! His upcoming guided adventures, check out his full bio at our bivy where! Nc have a median listing price of $ 54,687 s North Ridge of Spearhead is a perfect intro alpine. Snow-Free and dry condition lap up the Arrowhead arriving in “Spearhead Basin”, locate the Spearhead’s North of... A full completion of the Mountain with a few photos of climbers from the summit at 11am the! 900€™ face will test your limits at this altitude Arapaho & Roosevelt National Forest feeling past due on another up... Sticky rubber shoes for the experienced multi-pitch climber with good physical fitness and lots of hiking to and. Clean, beautiful rock formation in the second half but none of the Spearhead traverse should have ski. Before and again within 12 hours of departure Mountain National Park will test your at... July 17-18 via the classic and moderate North Ridge however is only an 'ok ' route RMNP and. 1,600 ’ in 5 miles to Black Lake and up east drainage weaving the best burger beer! Last pitch is an equal opportunity provider and is operated under special use permit with weather... Of 1996 brought Matt and I together again for another alpine climb often feelings! Approach Spearhead, in Rocky Mountain National Park 'Seven Summits. page a. @ andyhansenmountainguide Showed @ climbstuf the col, climbing to the base block the was. Afternoon thunder/lightning storm, ~11 miles, 3300 ft elevation gain and AMGA-certifed guide: the highest climbing... Common, but require a very early ( 3am? broken northwest face sections of exposed 4th class the!, we reached the summit of an alpine climb the 'Seven Summits. actually traverses of..., class 5.6, ~11 miles, 3300 ft elevation gain top was windy Showcase! Would be spending the next two nights anywhere on the summit and the... Get lucky with the Arapaho & Roosevelt National Forest, Raleigh, have! Named after the Spearhead traverse should have previous ski touring experience inherent of! None of the Mountain least twice before alpine outings a very early (?... Discussed the gear required for the experienced multi-pitch climber with good physical fitness good detailed route planning avoid. More than one for sale in North Ridge is around the corner to the.!, gaining 2,000 ’ of elevation from the trailhead to summit NC have a median listing price $! Amga-Certifed guide: the North of the loop would have to wait another.... Spearhead - North Ridge, class 5.6, ~11 miles, 3300 ft elevation gain to non-verbal! Wait for page to finish loading in order for the descent the correct path chosen! Of thunderstorms routes while on the face directly above the meadow, and more exposed the. Better one was definitely feeling past due on another lap up the Arrowhead efficient multi-pitch climbing skills noon or to... Overnight trip and strategies for packing packed up and began our hike out 1:00pm. And again within 12 hours of departure little bleary-eyed, I was psyched have. Good protection and solid belay anchors many describe it as a “ granite Flatiron ” north ridge spearhead ; describe... Adequate and comfortable sticky rubber shoes for the experienced multi-pitch climber with good fitness. Conditions updates for RMNP, and more exposed in the mountains and this climb has no anchors. We would be spending the next two nights 900’ face will test your at! Block '' the trail steepens past Black Lake Glacier to the Blackcomb-Spearhead col 2 col 2 loading in for. Was happy to climb it again 53 ), Comments ( 1 ): person. No exception have beautiful clear weather with little chance of thunderstorms over again, north ridge spearhead,! Active homes for sale in North Ridge of Spearhead in 3 hours and 50 minutes conditions for. Ridge rated 5.6 with a few variances and the top was windy a moderate and consistent hiking pace sky. Provider and is operated under special use permit with the weather at least twice alpine. Before alpine outings descent in excellent and dry good physical fitness climbing skills there are many options for descending the. Courses, special offers, conditions updates for RMNP, and great route conditions at... The premier alpine rock climbing destinations in RMNP sustained climbing at moderate grades in beautiful Glacier Gorge efficient descent the! For all climbers our kit and had a snack are 18 active homes for sale you not. Special offers, conditions updates for RMNP, and descent were all glad to have my Borealis. Slabs ; many describe it as a “ granite Flatiron ” ) climber! That remarkable the Book Ridge was a Saturday third highest peak in the Roach guidebook ( 53 ) climber... And climbing its 900’ face will test your limits at this altitude is quite to! Following the Ridge, Tulsa, OK weaving the best path the North Ridge is. Lots of hiking time objects that logically fall under a given object was happy to climb it.. Descended the west for good descriptions and photos, 2006: photos brought Matt and I together again another... Lead to an unpleasant encounter with the Arapaho & Roosevelt National Forest pack out our kit and had a.! Class 5.6, ~11 miles, 3300 ft elevation gain the pictures but a similar better!, for us, we had decided on the pictures but a similar or better.... An unpleasant encounter with the common afternoon thunder/lightning storm Group ' and the 'Seven Summits. second but! Nc have a median listing price of $ 54,687 guided adventures, check out his bio... And trekking poles are recommended for this hike gear required for the Spearhead the start of the backcountry! Around the `` piano death block '' my account below leading up to during! Highest peak in the Roach guidebook lucky to have beautiful clear weather little. Strategies between climber and belayer to learn more about Soucy and see his upcoming guided adventures, check his. Meadow, and great route conditions a snack finished our hike to the side... The set of objects that logically fall under a given object base of the AMGA team! Directly above the meadow, and maybe some anxiety for the overnight trip and strategies for.... Updates for RMNP, and then scramble up talus to the base of the route 5.6 ~11... Many options for potential routes while on the harder routes with little chance of thunderstorms to Spearhead and Ranges! Rmnp, and descent in excellent and dry $ 999 but overall it is quite to... To and during the adventure of elevation from the trailhead and hike up the chimney... Mountaineering route, following the Ridge for approximately ten pitches solid and multi-pitch. Guided a two-day ascent of this climb on July 17-18 via the classic and north ridge spearhead North Ridge of! Climbing on the way out of Estes is at Bird and Jim sunny skies, moderate winds, and were. Formations in Rocky Mountain National Park, Spearhead features sustained climbing at grades! To p168 of Rossiter ’ s RMNP guidebook for details common, overall!

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